Delaney and Madigan Essay Example for Free

Delaney and Madigan Essay Contrary to what some may believe, surf culture is much deeper and extends beyond a surfboard and some waves. Surfing, along with other sports, provides concrete examples of cultural differences based on variations between regions (Delaney and Madigan 2009: 62). The surf lingo between Australia, Hawaii, and California, for example, are quite different. Local surfers also approach competition differently and have different preferences regarding anything from wave type to the surfboard they like to use. The rise of competitions in places such as Australia and California also sparked the development of surf sub-cultures. Although they are all based upon original Hawaiian surf traditions, these cultures became much more localized and accessible to those who were not from the Polynesian islands, but still wished to partake in the world of surfing and embrace the surfing lifestyle (Goggans and DiFranco 2004: 434). So what, exactly, is the average surfer’s lifestyle and what is surf culture? According to Mike Doyle who was voted as 1964’s and 1965’s Best Surfer in Surfer Magazine, won the Duke Kahanamoku Classic in 1969, and who placed first in Peru at the 1970 World Championships it is about surfing to live and living to surf (California Surf Museum 2010). Doyle’s life is the quintessential surfer’s lifestyle, living as â€Å"†¦a super-athlete with a clear mind and a deep appreciation for nature and the elements†¦ True to his nature, [he has built] a new tree-house to sleep in. When people question, ‘When are you going to grow up? ’ he considers it verification that his perfect lifestyle is still intact† (California Surf Museum†. Surf culture essentially counterbalances the lifestyle of fast-paced business, big cities, and the stresses of everyday life. It has even developed its own category of relaxed fashion, with flip flops and board shorts becoming the iconic surf wardrobe (Lanagan 2002: 284). Consider what is required to be a surfer a board and a few good waves. Compared to the rest of the world, it is extremely minimal; and if one were to make a living as a professional surfer, it is evident that they would not face the same day to day conflicts and sources of anxiety as the average person. Surfers are not known as being wealthy; but with their appreciation for nature as opposed to fancy cars and houses, perhaps it is the simplicity of their lifestyle that enables them to live such peaceful and happy lives. Although living life as a surfer can be quite peaceful, surf culture is still built upon the concept of extreme sports. Extreme sports â€Å"†¦involve pitting oneself against the elements of one’s environment, whether natural or architectural. Their appeal derives from reintroducing and then individually confronting risk, the dangers of personal injury being chiefly mitigated by honing physical skills and mental preparation† (Laviolette 2007: 1). The fact that the surf lifestyle may be virtually stress-free does not negate the risks associated with the sport; and these risks are often the most appealing aspect of surfing. To surf, in theory, is to tame the ocean’s waves with nothing but a surfboard and one’s own body. The idea that the ocean, as vast and powerful as it is, could be ridden upon with a board is very intoxicating. Aside from drowning, there are other risks such as jellyfish or sharks, even though they are relatively rare. Rocky cliffs and coral reefs also present some danger of injury, especially if a surfer is thrown into a reef or cliff by a strong wave. Still, the ability to put oneself into a risky situation and come out unharmed can be extremely thrilling for some, which is why it is not uncommon for advanced surfers to seek out enormous waves near rocky cliffs (Waitt 2008: 81). The mental thrill that one gets when surfing, therefore, far outweighs any risks that they may face by partaking in this sport.